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DAINOAK
PUPPY BOOKLET
CONTENTS:
Section
1: Making Your Puppy At Home
Section
2: Housetraining
Section
3: Feeding
Section
4: Obedience Training
Section
5: Exercise
Section
6: Playing and Toys
Section
7: Health Care
Section
8: General Well-being
Section
9: Responsible Dog Ownership
SECTION 1:
MAKING YOUR PUPPY AT HOME
You are now the proud owner(s) of a Great Dane puppy, which
is indeed an honour. Your puppy will
give you many years of fun and much love, but in return requires that you look
after him well.
Once you get your puppy home, he will be very tired, and will
probably be missing his brothers and sisters.
The puppy may well have been sick on the journey, and needs to be made
comfortable and then left to rest for a while and settle in.
It is usually a good idea for your Dane to live in a
self-contained area, such as the kitchen or utility room. Puppies of all breeds are happier if contained in their "own"
restricted area when unsupervised by the family. Make sure that this area is safe for your
puppy, with no cold draughts or dangerous protrusions. Similarly, ensure that nothing of value is
left within reach of your puppy - do not blame the
puppy for destroying something that you have left within reach, as he will
assume that this is "fair game".
Your puppy must have his own comfortable bed, in a secure
corner out of the way. From here, your
puppy can watch what is going on whilst resting, and you can keep an eye on
him. Your puppy's first bed may only be
a cardboard box, with an old jumper wrapped round a hot water bottle (this will
help him get over the loss of his litter-mates). A ticking clock or a cuddly toy (which will
be chewed!) can also make the puppy feel at home.
Ensure that there is plenty of clean, fresh water available,
and that your puppy knows where it is.
This is especially important if your puppy has been sick during the
journey, as this will dehydrate him quite quickly. Offer a drink of a little warm milk every few
hours, to help settle the puppy.
Let your puppy have plenty of rest when you first get him
home. One of the most important things
to remember about puppies is that they require a great deal of sleep and
rest. If your puppy is sleeping, let
him be. Once he wakes he will want
to spend a penny, and then play. Let
your puppy decide initially when he wants to play and when he wants to sleep.
On the first evening with you, your puppy will be lonely for
his brothers and sisters, and may cry and howl.
DO NOT GIVE IN TO HIM. Ignore
your puppy when this happens, or you will be making a rod for your own back -
this will not be so funny when the puppy is six months old and 32"
high! Only go to him if you think he has
hurt himself - check the puppy and his surroundings, then go back to bed and
put your earplugs in. Puppies seldom
continue this performance if ignored for the first few
nights, as long as their beds are comfortable enough.
Older Puppies/Adult
Dogs
Older puppies and adult dogs should have a bed that is big
enough and comfortable. Because of your
Dane's large frame and big bone, he will need a very deep bed. We recommend beanbags, which you can add
"beans" to when necessary.
These avoid the large, unsightly calluses on elbows and hocks which are
often seen, and which are caused by inadequate bedding.
Dog baskets with "doggie duvets" are also quite
good, providing that the dog gets at least two thicknesses of duvet to lie on.
If you require any further advice on bedding, or on settling
your puppy, please call Kris
for a chat.
SECTION 2: HOUSE TRAINING
Your puppy will not know where to relieve himself until he
has been shown - and is still likely to forget from time to time. It is your responsibility to help your puppy
remember where to go - and to avoid him making mistakes.
Great Danes are usually easy to house train, especially if
you are consistent with them and get them into a routine. Puppies relieve themselves when the first
wake up, after a feed and after a spell of playing. Therefore, if you get into the habit of
watching your puppy and taking him where you want him to "go" at
these times, you will not have many mistakes and he will soon learn what is
wanted.
Newspaper training is a good first step to house
training. Paper should be placed in front
of the door to the garden, encouraging your puppy in the right direction. Once the puppy realises that this is the
right place to go, he will head to the door whenever he wants to relieve
himself. The next step is for you to
intercept him and take him outside, when you see him head purposefully towards
the newspaper.
When house training your puppy, always remember to speak
quietly and not frighten your puppy.
Handle the puppy gently - if he relieves himself in
the wrong place, pick him up gently and move him to the right
place. Praise him quietly and stroke him
once you get him there, so that he knows this is correct. You should never smack your puppy when house
training - do not tell a puppy off for making a mistake, but praise him when he
is good. You puppy wants to please, and
will soon learn to be clean if you take this approach.
Always remember that a young puppy cannot control its
urges. It is quite usual to have a clean
puppy all day and a puddle in the evening for a while. This is because the puppy cannot physically
hold himself for this long. If your
puppy gets into the habit of drinking large quantities of water in the evening,
reduce the amount of water available at this time. This will enable your puppy to have a drink,
but should keep him drier at night.
Gradually, this night time drinking habit will reduce, and you will
again be able to leave your puppy with a full water bowl.
NEVER, under any circumstances, rub your puppy's nose in his
mess. The dog's nose is very sensitive -
if you rub his nose in his mess, he will smell it everywhere he goes, and this
will encourage him to be dirty. This is
an unsuccessful and barbaric method of dog training resorted to by the
ignorant, who will probably get rid of the dog "because it's dirty"
at a later date.
Summary
The basic rules of house training should be:
1. Watch
your puppy - note when he wants to relieve himself and how he acts before he
relieves himself.
2. Always
praise your puppy when he goes in the right place.
3. If
your puppy makes a mistake, quietly put him in the
right place and then praise him.
4. Use
your common sense!
SECTION 3: FEEDING
General
Rules
1. Feed
your puppy at the same time every day.
Dogs thrive on routine, so when you get your puppy home, adjust its
meals gradually to fit your routine.
This will make life easier for you, and for your Dane.
2. Always
have a plentiful supply of clean, fresh water available. Water should be changed at least twice a day,
and the bowl should be cleaned regularly.
3. Your
Dane should always be fed from a clean bowl.
The best bowls are the stainless steel ones available from pet
shops. They do not wear or get scratched
(or chewed) in the same way as plastic ones, so do not harbour germs. They are long lasting, and easy to clean, so
are more economic in the long run, although more expensive to buy.
4. Your
Dane should always be fed with the bowl at shoulder height. We recommend that you hold your puppy's bowl
until he is about six months old, and then either make or buy a feeding
table. Phone Kris for
advice on this.
If
you feed your Dane from a bowl on the floor, his legs (pasterns and feet) will
become weak, and will not grow in the correct shape.
5. ALWAYS
stick to the diet sheet, which is provided for the benefit of your puppy. Danes' dietary requirements are different
from those of other breeds, and your puppy will
require different feeding to any other breeds you may have owned.
6. Ensure
that your Dane does not drink large quantities of water before or, especially,
after feeding. This can cause stomach
problems, and can even flush the food through the stomach before it is
digested.
Most
healthy Danes will not do this, but special care should be taken on hot days.
7. NEVER
exercise your Dane immediately after feeding him. Always allow at least an hour and a half for
digestion to take place. Similarly,
never feed your Dane directly after walking him. Allow at least an hour between a walk and a
meal.
Both of the above can
cause a condition called bloat. This is
a fatal condition which Danes are prone to, but which is easily avoided
SECTION 4: OBEDIENCE
TRAINING
Because of the massive size to which your puppy will grow, it
is essential for him to be socialised correctly and to be obedience trained. A large badly behaved dog is a menace -
please do not tar the Great Dane's reputation by allowing your dog to be a
menace.
Your puppy will grow very quickly. By the time he is six months old, he will
probably be 30" at the shoulder.
Therefore, you will need to take him a reputable dog training
establishment from an early age. Most
clubs will take large dogs from a very early age, if asked, and your local vet,
pet shop or boarding kennels will be able to recommend a training club. Alternatively, look for advertisements under
the "Pets" column in your local paper.
Great Danes are capable of being very obedient, and as long
as your dog is well trained he will be a pleasure to live with and take
out. We have found that Danes are easy to
train - a mixture of
common sense and praise (and often a sense of humour) works
wonders!
NEVER be tempted to let a professional dog trainer train your
dog for you. You need to be taught the
basics of training and handling your dog for your dog to obey you.
As soon as you have named your puppy, ensure you use his name
regularly. When you call him, say his
name in a pleasant voice, and praise him as soon as he responds and comes to
you. If at any time he ignores or
misunderstands you, encourage him by squeaking a toy or showing him a titbit,
which he can have when he comes to you.
If he ignores you, never smack or scold him when he eventually does come
to you - he will only remember the punishment he received when he eventually
did come, and not the interval before he did!
Collars and Leads
Your training club will advise you on suitable collars and
leads for your puppy. To begin with, I
would recommend a nylon half check collar and a nylon lead, as these are both
light and strong; therefore, puppies get used to them very quickly. DO NOT put a "check chain" on your
puppy - these should only be used by experts or when under their instruction,
as they are cruel and can cause damage if used incorrectly. A check chain is not a short cut to training
a dog.
The nylon half check collar should be adjustable, and should
be fitted so that the nylon ends only close tightly if your puppy pulls on the
lead, but fall loose when your puppy walks correctly beside you. The half check is less harsh than a check chain,
and only tightens to a certain point, thereby distributing pressure equally
around the neck. The collar can be
introduced once your puppy has settled in to his new home, which usually takes
a couple of days.
To get your puppy used to his collar, put it on him and then
play with him. Most puppies accept the
collar easily, but some will put up a fight - adjust to your puppy's
reaction. Trust to distract your
puppy's attention from biting or scratching at the collar by playing with
him. If he does not mind the collar,
leave it on - it is safe to do this with a half check collar. If he dislikes it, put it on for a few
minutes each day, and build up the time gradually. Do not introduce the lead at this stage.
Once your puppy is used to his collar, and is happy wearing
it, you can begin to introduce the lead.
Put the lead on in the garden or in the house, and follow the puppy
wherever he goes without tightening the lead.
When you want him to come with you, call his name to encourage him, and
say "heel". Again, start with
a couple of minutes and gradually increase the time until you can keep the lead
on for half an hour. This usually takes
about two weeks, if your puppy accepts it without a problem.
By lead training your puppy this way, you will not have to
pull him and he will respond to your voice.
This is essential when your Dane is fully grown. Your puppy should not pull if you train him
in this way.
Teaching Your Puppy to
Sit
Teaching your puppy to sit is an easy exercise, which can be
taught indoors or in the garden. If your
puppy is very amenable, you should be able to teach him to sit without using
the lead.
Firstly, have your puppy on your left hand side, facing
forwards. Place your right palm gently
under his jaw, near his neck. This hand
should not exert any pressure, but will stop the puppy putting his head down
when you encourage him to sit. Place
your left hand three quarters of the way down your puppy's back, run your hand
straight over his hind end and, when you get to the crook of the back legs,
tuck the bottom and tail neatly under him.
As you do the above, tell your puppy to "sit" in a clear firm
voice, ONCE ONLY. When he is sitting, praise
and fuss him.
This exercise can be carried out a couple of times during the
day. Choose a time when your puppy is
calm, as this will ensure that you get the best out of him.
This method of teaching will ensure a neat, tidy sit, without
harming your puppy's bones. There is no
need to push your puppy's bottom down - in fact, it is
much easier to just tuck it underneath him.
NEVER put any pressure on your puppy's hips or
push your puppy's bottom down. This can cause irreparable damage! Your puppy, although large, will not stop
developing until he is two or three years old, and his bones will not be
totally hardened off until this age.
Therefore, any stress on this delicate part of his skeleton can cause
hip and back problems.
Summary
Your puppy needs to be obedience trained, because this will socialise
him with other dogs and people, and will teach him to behave well. A well behaved dog is a pleasure to own - you
should be able to take your dog anywhere, and have other people welcome him.
A BADLY BEHAVED DOG IS
A NUISANCE - A LARGE BADLY BEHAVED DOG IS A MENACE!!
Some things to remember about obedience training:
1. Always train your puppy when he is calm, and only spend a
few minutes a day (possibly in two sessions) training, so that your puppy does
not get bored.
2. Always
teach an exercise in the same way and with the same command - consistency is
the key to training your puppy.
3. Give
commands in one tone of voice. Praise
should be given in a higher tone, to help your puppy differentiate between a
command and praise.
4. Always
finish a training session on a good note.
If you are trying to teach an exercise which your dog does not really
understand, finish with an exercise he does well and praise him.
5. Use
your common sense! Dogs are not
generally difficult to train - if you are having difficulty, then you are doing
something wrong. Seek advice from an
expert, or call me - don't blame the dog.
SECTION 5: EXERCISE
Despite his size, the adult Great Dane does not require
excessive exercise. However, he will
require a daily walk, consisting of some time spent walking to heel on the
lead, some free exercise to gallop and play, plus a chance to have a sniff and
wander about.
If you allow your puppy to have too much exercise, you will
not only ruin his confirmation, but will make a rod for your own back as he
will expect this much exercise daily.
This is a particular problem for those who wish to show their dogs.
The Great Dane's natural pace is the trot, as with most other
breeds. However, it is much easier with a
small dog to walk at your normal pace while the dog trots at your side! It is not that easy with a Dane. Some Danes will trot whilst off the lead, but
those that do not should be discouraged from galloping everywhere.
Amount of Exercise
When your puppy is six months old, you should be giving him
about twenty minutes to half an hour of exercise each day. This should consist of some time on the lead,
and some time for the puppy to be off the lead.
If your puppy is not very good off the lead, only let him loose in an
enclosed and safe area (the back garden, if necessary), and get him to
obedience classes. However, by now you
should be able to let him off the lead safe in the knowledge that he will return
when called.
You may decide that half an hour a day is enough exercise for
you both, and in this case stick to it.
Be consistent - don't stop taking him out because it is raining, and try
to take him out at the same time each day.
Get into a routine, and life will be easier for you and for your puppy.
Once your puppy reaches twelve months of age, you can
gradually increase the amount of exercise up to about an hour. Only do this if you intend to give your dog
an hour's exercise each day, as once he becomes fit he will expect this and become
boisterous if he does not get it.
For those of you who
want to show your Dane
As I mentioned before, the Dane's natural pace is the
trot. When a judge assesses a dog's
movement in the show ring, this is the pace that he assesses. Therefore, you will need to spend time
learning to move your dog to his best advantage and perfecting the pace of his
trot.
The best way to improve your dog's movement is to jog with
him, or teach him to trot beside a bicycle.
Start with a few short jogs of two minutes and then walk for five
minutes, and so on. Gradually build up
the time spent jogging (ensuring that your dog trots, rather than cantering
along beside you!), until you have built up to twenty minutes of jogging, interspersed
with breaks of walking. This can be
built into your Dane's normal daily exercise.
Watch your dog to find out which speed is the most
comfortable for him, and adjust your speed to his. He should cover the ground effortlessly, but
with drive. He should be purposeful, not
ambling along or moving so fast that his trotting does not flow. You should be able to see when you have got
it right. Then take him along to
ringcraft classes, where you will be shown how to stand him and how to do the
triangle at a trot, which is what the judge will want to see.
Walking on a hard surface, like tarmac, and walking up hills
will improve your dog's movement and muscle.
I would avoid trotting on hard surfaces, as this can put too much stress
on your Dane's joints (and yours!).
Summary
1. Be
consistent - walk at the same time every day, for the same amount of time. Choose a time that is convenient to your
daily routine.
2. Discourage
your dog from galloping everywhere - he will end up skinny and too fit,
knocking people over, scaring other dogs and generally being a pest!
3. If
you are a real "walker", gradually build up your dog's exercise and
use road work to get him fit. Danes can
walk for miles quite happily, and they are easy to get
fit. However, if your circumstances change, you must cut down
the exercise as gradually as you increased it.
A dog which is very fit and works very hard will need his diet changed
to suit - for further advice on this, please call Kris on (01344) 640267.
4. Use
your common sense - don't start something that you don't intend to continue,
but don't think that you can't take your puppy out for the odd day with the
family, because he is only meant to have half an hour's exercise each day.
SECTION 6: PLAYING AND TOYS
Puppies are like children, in that they need to express
themselves through play. Allowing your
puppy to play not only alleviates boredom, but allows your puppy some freedom
and time to act out his instinctive habits.
It is preferable to allow your puppy to play when he wants to, but again
use your common sense to teach your puppy a routine that fits in with
yours. It is hard dishing up the family
dinner with a six month old Great Dane puppy running around the kitchen!
Please also remember that your puppy's endearing little
habits at seven weeks may not be so amusing when he is fully grown in size, but
is still a puppy. Exercise some common
sense about things he does now that you will not want him to do later -
distract his attention by playing with him or teaching him something new. This will focus his attention on something
useful, getting him out of bad habits and into good ones.
Your Dane puppy will spend most of his time playing, eating
and sleeping. The playing will be split
into several periods during the day, and he will probably save the best until
everyone is home in the evening. As he
gets older, your Dane will slow down a bit, but most Danes play a lot until
they are at least two or three years old.
They may play less when they are older, but they usually still have at
least one "funny five minutes" a day, right into their old age.
All dogs love to play with squeaky toys, which can be
purchased from pet shops. A careful eye
needs to be kept on these, as it is usually a matter of minutes before the
squeaker has been bitten out and bits of plastic have been chewed off. Obviously, these small bits of plastic are
very dangerous if swallowed, so play with this type of toy must be supervised. We recommend that you keep your Dane's
"squeaky" hidden until you have time to watch him play with it.
Most dogs love a teddy bear or soft toy, and this can be
initially used as a companion for your Dane during his first few nights in his
new home. Soft toys are often helpful
when your Dane is teething - when his teeth are sore and new, it is nice to
chew something soft. However, if your
Dane is anything like ours, you will spend hours re-stitching and re-stuffing
his favourite soft toy. This is often
the toy the dog associates with going to bed, or with sitting quietly. It can be used to teach your puppy to go to
bed, or to sit quietly, which is useful if you are going out for the evening.
All dogs love playing with toys that they can retrieve,
although if it is a favourite toy it may not always be given back to you! If you buy a ball for your Dane, do not buy a
really heavy one. Many people buy heavy
balls, and then complain when the dog loses teeth or does not play with the toy
any more. Always buy balls which are
large enough to ensure that your puppy can not swallow them, and that are
fairly light. Another favourite of Danes
is a toy called a "Kong", which are available at good pet shops. The Kong is a rubber toy which bounces,
usually in the direction you least expect (so it is not wise to allow these in
the house) and which will quickly become your Dane's favourite. The Kong is expensive, but is
indestructible. Good pet shops sell all
sorts of retrievable toys, and will also offer advice as to their suitability
for different breeds.
Cheap toys can also be made out of household objects, as long
as you ensure that they are safe. Our
dogs like old tights tied in knots, old plastic coke bottles, etc.
Chews and Chewing
Great Danes are also renowned for being great chewers. This does not mean that they are naturally
destructive, but that you must provide lots of suitable chews to keep them
occupied. We have always followed this
philosophy, and have never suffered any damage to the house or to the
furniture.
When chews are mentioned, most people immediately think of
bones. However, bones often cause both
diarrhoea and flatulence, and are therefore not appealing to most
households. If you do give your dogs bones,
the only ones we recommend are fresh marrowbones from your local butcher. These are inexpensive, only costing about 60p
for two, and your butcher will saw them in half lengthways for you if asked.
NEVER feed chicken bones - they splinter inside the dog
NEVER feed cooked bones - they splinter inside the dog
Smoked bones or sterilised bones purchased from your local
pet shop are great for your dog, and have the additional benefits of not
smelling awful, not being greasy, not upsetting your dog's tummy and being long
lasting. They are more expensive than
fresh marrowbones, but they do not go off.
There are also various types of chew available from pet shops
which are made from hide. Your Dane will
love these, but make sure that you replace them when they get small enough to
be swallowed whole. These chews do not
smell, but they do make your Dane's face and paws sticky. However, this brushes off when dry.
Cow hooves are also a great favourite of Danes. These give the dog additional calcium, but
they do smell a bit when wet. They can
be bought cheaply at pet shops or on market stalls, for about 30p each. They should be replaced when they have been
gnawed and are getting small, as these can also be swallowed whole.
Pet shops now also sell "Nylabone" products. These are flavoured nylon bones, which are
specifically designed to "brush" your dog's teeth and gums. They are expensive, but they do not smell and
they last forever, so are cost effective and healthy. If you intend to use Nylabones, we recommend
that you never introduce any other type of chew, as our experience is that a
dog will never touch Nylabones once it has tried another type of chew!
As with everything else concerning your Dane, the suitability
of toys and chews require you to exercise some common sense. Chewing and playing relieve tension and
boredom, and help keep teeth and gums healthy, but they must be on your
terms. Your Dane should only be allowed
to chew things that you provide him with, and you should always be able to take
a chew or toy away from him without him growling.
SECTION 7: HEALTHCARE
Inoculations
All puppies need to be vaccinated against contagious and
fatal diseases, such as Parvovirus and Leptospirosis. Your vet will vaccinate your puppy at nine
weeks of age, and again in a couple of weeks.
He will then normally recommend that you wait for a week or two before
taking your puppy out. These
vaccinations are essential to the well-being of your puppy, and adult Danes
will require "booster" vaccinations every year to keep them in good
health.
I can not stress how important it is to keep your Dane's
vaccinations up to date. Without the
protection that these vaccinations offer, your Dane could catch one of these
diseases which are frequently fatal, and always extremely painful and
unpleasant.
Your vet will advise you of which types of vaccine they use,
when to have the initial vaccinations and when boosters will be due. Before your vet vaccinates your puppy, he
should give him a general "MOT" - checking him all over for signs of
ill health or worms. If there are any
problems, your vet will advise you of treatment, and when to bring your puppy
back for his vaccinations. (Vets use
live vaccines on puppies, and these are dangerous if the puppy's immunity is
low, due to illness.) In any case, I
would recommend that you arrange to have your puppy checked over by your own
vet, as soon as possible after he is collected.
Worming
Your puppy's worming will be up to date when you collect him,
but puppies need frequent worming until they are a year old. Adult dogs need worming at least twice a
year. In my opinion, it is a false
economy to buy any worming tablets other than those sold by your vet. The wormers available from chemists are
seldom effective, and often upset your dog's stomach.
The tablets that your vet will provide are economical, safe
and effective. They will break up and
kill all worms before they are passed in your puppy's motions, and therefore
will not re-infest your puppy or other animals, and will be safe for children.
The first time you visit your vet with your puppy, for his
vaccinations, ask the vet for some worming tablets and advice on how often you
should worm your puppy. We advise that a
puppy should be wormed every six weeks up to the age of nine months, again at
twelve months and then at six month intervals.
SECTION 8: GENERAL WELL-BEING
Your Great Dane will not need a tremendous amount of care to
keep him in good condition. However, we
recommend the following to ensure that he is kept in tip top condition.
Grooming and Coat Care
The Great Dane's coat should be very short, thick and
sleek. The coat should have a good
shine, and be free from loose hair, scurf and dirt.
Your Dane will need grooming at least twice weekly, and a
horse's body brush is the most effective brush for this type of coat. If you can not obtain one of these, you
should use a brush with short, stiff bristles which are not harsh. It should take approximately ten minutes to
thoroughly brush your dog, including his head (gently!), legs, belly and tail.
When your brush your Dane, do not
bang the brush down on him. Put the
brush on him gently, and exert pressure as you brush in long strokes. This will keep his coat, skin and muscles
(through the pressure) healthy. You
should use this time to check your Dane for any injuries, cuts or
scratches. If you find any, clean them
and apply antiseptic lotion or powder.
A hound glove is another good item to keep in your grooming
box. The glove is usually double-sided
and made of rubber. It is good for removing
any dead coat and loose hair. If your
Dane moults excessively (although this is not common), use a horse's curry comb
on the coat. This is the most effective
tool for removing loose hair that I have ever seen. It should be used in the same way that you
use the body brush or hound glove.
PLEASE NOTE that a Dane usually moults twice a year - once in
spring before the summer coat comes through, and once in the autumn before the
winter coat grows. When
a blue or black Great Dane moults, the coat may take on a fawn or brown tinge. Do not worry about this, as it is quite
normal, and when the moult has finished the blue or black colour will
return. One teaspoonful of powdered
seaweed, which is available from good pet shops, will keep the colour good during
the moult, but this should not be fed on very hot days.
Nails and Their Care
Your Dane will have short nails when you collect him and,
ideally, the nails should never be allowed to get any longer than this. This will require your trimming them regularly. The nails should never become long enough to
touch the ground, as this is both unnecessary and can cause your Dane's feet to
splay.
Each nail has a "quick" in it, which is the supply
of blood and the nerve to the nail. On
white nails, you will be able to see the quick as a pink line, which tapers off
near to the end of the nail. Care must
be taken not to cut the quick, as this is very painful for the dog, bleeds
profusely and does not make future nail cutting sessions easy!
If you are worried about cutting your puppy's nails, ring
Kris and arrange to visit me here, so that I can show you what to do. Alternatively, local boarding kennels, pet
grooming parlours and (more expensively) your vet will cut nails for
approximately £2.00, and are well worth a visit once every two months.
Teeth and Their Care
Provided that your Dane has plenty of suitable chews (see
Section Six) and is fed on a healthy diet, which should be free from titbits of
human food, you should not have any problems with his teeth.
The teeth should be white, and your Dane's breath should not
be unpleasant. Suitable chews will
occupy your Dane whilst he is teething, and will keep his teeth and gums in
good condition. Teething occurs in
different stages, and varies from puppy to puppy. However, he will chew from the moment you
collect him until approximately eight months of age, and possibly longer. You may find that your Dane's ears feel very
hot during teething, or in fact look a bit odd or different. This is quite natural, and nothing to worry
about - they will return to normal when he finishes teething.
Assuming the above, your Dane should never suffer from tartar
or dirty teeth, but an old toothbrush can be used to brush your Dane's
teeth. Toothpaste designed specifically
for dogs is available in good pet shops, but you can also use your own. Your Dane will probably not be too keen on
this, and will dribble. If his gums
bleed when you brush them, ensure that he has more suitable chews in future.
Signs of Good Health
If your Dane has bright eyes, an interested expression, is
full of life when he wants to play and sleeps the rest of the time - he's quite
normal! You will soon get to know your
puppy's moods and expressions, and if he is unwell I'm sure that you will notice
a difference in his behaviour. However,
I have listed below some of the signs that dogs commonly show when they are
unwell.
Signs of Ill Health
If your Dane shows two or more of the following, he may be
sickening for something and need to see a vet.
If you are ever worried about your dog but are not sure if your anxiety
is founded contact Kris and describe the symptoms. Alternatively, ring your vet and describe the
symptoms over the telephone. Your vet
will not ask you to come into the surgery unless it sounds like something is
wrong.
If your Dane shows one of these signs, especially if it is
shown constantly, ring Kris and explain.
It may just be that your Dane's diet needs adjusting slightly,
and if this is the case I'm sure that I will be able to help.
Third
eyelid showing Dull coat
Shivering Listlessness
Excessive
drinking Refusing
food
Restlessness Vomiting
Eating
grass
SECTION 9: RESPONSIBLE DOG OWNERSHIP
As you have obtained a Dainoak Great Dane, you must already
have a fairly responsible attitude to dog ownership (if not, I would not have
let you have one of my puppies!).
Therefore, you understand the importance of enjoying your dog without
ruining anyone else's enjoyment.
A dog as large as a Great Dane frightens many people, and
care should be taken whilst out to avoid any such situation. It is important that Danes are well behaved -
not only because of the havoc they can cause if they are not, but also because
the anti-dog brigade would have them muzzled, castrated and registered given
half a chance.
As with any breed, you should not let your dog foul the
pavement. If your dog relieves itself
while out on a walk, you should ensure that he learns to do so where people
will not tread in it. You should never exercise
your dog on school premises, or anywhere where children regularly play. If your dog fouls where there is a bin
provided for the purpose of clearing up after your dog, ensure that you do so.
Do not let your Dane approach strange dogs, and make sure
that he is fairly obedient whilst off the lead - if he is not,
do not let him off the lead in public places until he is. As stated earlier, attending local obedience
classes will help you achieve this, and it is usually good fun too.
Finally, if you ever find that your situation has changed and
that you can no longer keep your Dane - LET
KRIS KNOW. I will help you to re-home your dog if the situation can not be resolved, and
if it is a temporary problem I may be able to offer some help or advice.
Copyright 2001 Dainoak Great Danes. kris@Dainoak.co.uk All rights reserved. However, you are encouraged to copy and distribute this article for non-commercial use with the following restrictions: You may modify the article to reflect your breed with the notation clearly stated giving credit to Dainoak Great Danes and including the copyright notice. You may not charge any fee for use, copying, nor distribution of the product.